I've long been an advocate for Fisher & Paykel washers. Numerous times I have stated that the only top load washers I would recommend anyone buy be Speed Queen and Fisher & Paykel. Unfortunately, I am going to have to stop making that recommendation.
The problems with the latest line of AquaSmart washers is many, mostly centered around the fact that they consistently blow control boards. Given the fact that modern appliances are heavily computerized, a blown board renders an appliance as useful as a paper weight.
Home Expo, the high-end division of Home Depot, has shuttered their doors. Expo served as one major arm of Fisher & Paykel retail distribution. The company is also being shut out of Lowes. While firm numbers are not available, I would imagine Lowes alone counted for a very large percentage of Fisher & Paykel's North American sales.
The Clyde, Ohio, washer factory is to be closed in July and production sent across the river to Mexico.
The company's balance sheet is weighted down with around half a billion dollars in debt. This is an increase from $16 million just five years ago.
An interesting interview with F&P chairman Gary Paykel can be found here. The interview raises an interesting spectre: the possibility of a large competitor swooping in to take over the company. Imagine F&P coming under control of the ChiComms in the form of Haier.
Maybe all of the above is just circumstantial, and not really enough to stop recommending their products. However, their AquaSmart washers have problems (as do the Oasis/Cabrio/Bravos washer, with technology licensed from F&P; coincidence?). The top load dryers have a persistent bearing problem. And the company has reduced their very good 2-year warranty to one year, putting them on par with Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and all the rest of the appliances on the market.
I do like to gamble. But $800 is a lot of money to me, far too much for gambling. So I would stay away from Fisher & Paykel for the time being. And I sincerely hope they get their house in order.





Message to a friend regarding my Fisher & Paykel washer's death:
Purchased Fisher & Paykel Washer, Model GWL10, in 07-21-2001 for $700.00. It replaced a Kenmore/Whirlpool purchased in 1982. That unit had one $80.00 motor replaced during its long life. Parts for the GWL10 are pretty expensive.
On Friday, 05-15-2009, the GFCI was tripped in the laundry room. After resetting it, the 12" round fluorescent ceiling light wasn't working. The ballast and wires were darkened and brittle, so I removed it. That may have been what tripped the GFCI.
The washer was started and resumed from the point in its cycle when power was interrupted. As soon as it started the high speed (1,000 RPM) spin, it powered off. Wouldn't power back on until it had been unplugged for a minute. After restarting it resumed again from the rinse/spin cycle. Spun at 600 RPM OK, but slowed to a stop, and shut off after it tried to speed up to 1,000 RPM.
I tried using different wash settings, but it always fails at the very high speed spin point. Sometimes slowing to a stop, then shutting off, or simply shutting off right at the instant it supposed to increase speed. This washer is supposed to have beep codes, and a method to see LED codes on the panel, but this issue does neither.
Put a fan on the controller, but that didn't help. Opened up controller, but saw no singed components. Took out drum, looking for leaks or poor seal, but looked OK. Jumpered past out of balance switch, which didn't help.
Found moisture on floor under water pump. The seal for this pump is bad, allowing water to short the 240V pump motor. Suspect this may be what tripped the GFCI. The motor controller also steps up the 120VAC to 240VAC for this pump. I pulled apart the pump, soaked seal in brake fluid, and reassembled and reinstalled it. Machine still will not spin to full speed without powering off.
The controller, #426930P, is $200.00. The pump, #420324P, is $80.00. I can buy another Fisher & Paykel at Lowes for about $535.00 with a full rebate for delivery and removal of old machine. Would you be interested in the old machine? It's probably able to be fully functional for the $280.00 investment. Parts can both be installed in about 30 minutes.
Otherwise, it could be parted out. The stator of the direct drive motor can be converted to an electric generator. Has a couple electric water valves and a few other parts... very few.
Reasons you might want it for a washer:
* Very few parts. Direct drive motor means no transmission.
* 1,000 RPM spin means almost dry cloths go into the dryer. Able to dry cloths as quick as you wash them.
* VERY efficient. One of the most efficient machines on the market.
On the negative side, what it saves in complexity of mechanical parts, more than doubles those costs in parts prices for the electronics. I'm also annoyed about the GWL10's lack of full hot water wash and rinse cycle. Have to use a work around to trick it into a true hot water wash. Nevertheless, I'm taking a chance, and buying another. What it saves in time and energy compensates for the high initial cost and shorter life. You might say it's a wash.
Brad,
Don't lose hope for the F&P brand just yet. While the company may be in a time of transition, their product development group is still very strong. The release of the triple dispensing AquaSmart this year is an improvement over the initial release back in 07'. Also, do not be surprised to see some new developments with this company over the next couple of years.
I happen to know that there is a renewed focus on quality within the organization and that initiatives are underway to ensure the reliability of future products.
I have a Fisher Paykel Washer #GLW10 and this is the 3rd Control Module I've replaced in the last 2 years. Technician says everything else checks out just fine. I think the control modules 426930P are faulty. Fisher Paykel says that part is on backorder. I'll never buy another Fisher Paykel product!
I bought the high end F&P laundry pair 3 1/2 years ago. The control panel on the dryer was replaced, along with a new washer lid. Numerous repairs for loud , noisy dryer. The washer works fine unless I want to wash with only cold water or only hot water. then it likes to dump water all over my floor!
Consumer Reports publishes a frequency of repair report for many items including washers.
F&P rates at the bottom of the chart along with the once-reliable Amana brand which is now owned by the totally unpredictable Whirlpool company which also owns Maytag®, KitchenAid®, Jenn-Air®, Gladiator® GarageWorks, Roper®, Bauknecht, Estate, Insperience, Magic Chef, Brastemp, Consul and builds many of the Kenmore (Sears) branded items.
14% of F&P and Amana owners reported at least one serious failure in machines bought in the 2004-2008 period.
I too have now had two boards go bad. The first went bad this last January, just would not show any power. Being an electronics tec for the last 40+ years I figured out it was the control board so I ordered one figuring that it would last. Well here it is 10 1/2 months later and it’s bad again. Since the board has a 1 year warranty I phoned and tried to get a replacement but they said I would need to pay for a service call since I installed it myself. Let’s see you plug it in and that’s it. Like putting your keys in your car pretty simple. Looks like I am being bent over the proverbial barrel. The machine is a great idea with fewer parts but it’s like almost everything now days, designed to go bad so you will need to buy a new one. If we only had companies owned and operated with morals instead of greed. Our first washer was an 18 year old GE which we had for 12 years and only had a pump go out until the tub got a chip in it and it started to make spots on the clothing. Wife conned me into getting a new one which was junk from the get go. Lasted 13 months before it started going bad. First the timer then a pump then the motor then another pump then the transition. I wrote a letter to the company about all of the problems so they sent out a tec and replaced the transmission for free, trouble is it only lasted for about 6 months and went bad again. That when I said I wanted another GE. Trouble is the same company that made the Magic Chef juker is now the same company making GE. I talked to a friend that works on appliances and he said they no longer make a Speed Queen which was the Cadillac so were stuck with junk.
I've have a Fisher & Paykel GWL11 from 2005 till today (5/2011). I have to say that it is the best washer I've ever had. I have abused it terribly on a construction site, left it in an outside shed during the cold. It would freeze and not work until thoroughly thawed. One time I put a bunch of caked muddy shoes (about 5 pairs) in it and it had a problem with that. What I love most is that a person with moderate mechanical ability can service 95% of any problems. On that occasion I took it apart and found the piece clogged with mud and put it back together. It only took about 45 minutes to do.
I've used cold water only the entire time and it still cleans better than my previous washer using hot and cold. It uses very little detergent. Great capacity!
Currently, I do have a possible control board failure - it is about $130, but for what I've put this unit through it doesn't phase me one bit. Great unit and I don't mind a few parts as the thing tells me what is wrong and is quick to fix.
FYI:
The control boards for GWL11 and compatible are now shipped with a fuse to protect the control board from a pump drawing too much current.
Fisher and Paykel have improved their financial position. Their earnings are up and debt has been paid down substantially. These are great units for washing; the only issue is that they are a little less reliable that the old totally mechanical units - but I think that is true on many brands. The nice things about these units, is that the minimally mechanically inclined can repair these with parts.
"The control boards for GWL11 and compatible are now shipped with a fuse to protect the control board from a pump drawing too much current."
I guess I need to figure out how to install one of these fuses before I ever have that problem. I did install a surge protector in the 110V supply to protect the electronics on the board from electrical surges.