Anyone searching the Internet for information on washing machines will find many references to mold and mildew build-up leading to a horrendous stench that eventually permeates anything washed in the machine. While most of the cases of smelly washers seem to be related to frontload washers, build-up of mold and mildew is not exclusive to them. Yes, you can still have the problem in top load washers. The thing is, the problem is much less noticeable so people don't even realize they have the problem.
But never fear, for I am going to lay out for you exactly what you can do to prevent the problem, and how you can fix it if you've already got it.
Wanna see something gross? Check this out. That, my friends, is the inner wash tub of a Maytag Neptune frontload washer. For those not aware, the first and second generation Neptunes were notorious for developing a pretty nasty case of mold on the interior, and this is a perfect illustration. And while you may discount the Neptune as an anomaly, a worst-case scenario, I would urge you to reconsider. It is very likely the interior of your washer has a build-up, also. It may not be as extreme, but it is there.
So what causes it? Several things.
1) Washing primarily in cold water. This is bad, so very bad. And also pretty much useless. In older machines without automatic temperature control, the cold setting on your washer will give you water at whatever temperature it comes out of the ground. So if the water temperature is fifty degrees (or colder) in the winter, that's what it is going into the drum. And that is bad because if the water is less than 65 degrees or so, the detergent will not properly activate or dissolve. This is especially bad if you use liquid detergent as the waxy chemicals used to create the detergent do not dissolve properly and build-up on the inner workings of your machine.
You need to do warm and hot water washes in order to keep the machine clean. These temperatures will help to prevent the build-up of crap on the inside of your machine, and that build-up of crap is what leads to mold and mildew. Besides, warm and hot water washes simply do a better job of cleaning.
2) Liquid detergent and liquid fabric softener (LFS). These are just as bad, or worse, than cold water washes. The three combined are just asking for trouble. Use a high-quality powder detergent, and skip the LFS. If you must use a fabric softener, try a quarter cup of white vinegar in the rinse cycle.
3) Not performing routine maintenance. The prospect of having to perform routine maintenance on your brand-spanking-new $1,000+ washing machine tends to piss some people off. The common argument is that they shouldn't have to "do anything special to a washer" they just spent over a grand on. After all, they didn't have to do anything with their old top load washer!
In all reality, they should have. Top load washers are just as susceptible to the problem; people just don't realize it.
The routine maintenance is really quite simple. Wipe down the inner door and gasket with a clean rag after you are done washing for the day. Also, it is best to leave the door open for a few hours to allow any remaining moisture to dry out. A lot of people do not want to leave the door open because they have cats and do not want them getting into the machine. Well, if you are worried about that, then check the drum before stuffing it full and starting a load to make sure Fluffy doesn't go for a joyride.
Finally, once a month or so, you need to clean the inside of the washer. To do this, I recommend running an empty load on the longest, hottest wash cycle available. But instead of using laundry detergent, I want you to use Cascade Complete powder detergent, about a half cup. Why? Dishwashing detergents are formulated with enzymes to help break down and dissolve food particles. These enzymes are equally effective on particles inside your washing machine. Do this once a month, and you will likely never develop a problem.
But what if it's too late and you already have a problem? No need to drag the washer out to the curb or start doing Google searches for "x-brand class action lawsuit". If your washer or clothes are smelling a bit funky, then get a box of Cascade Complete like I suggested above and get to it. Run a complete cycle and let it do it's thing. If your washer has a sanitary cycle, use it. You want the hottest water you can get. Try doing that a few times, let the washer dry out, and then stick your head right in the drum to see if you smell any mold. Still there?
There are a few products available on the market designed especially for cleaning washing machines. Affresh and Washer Magic are a couple. There is an interesting thread over at GardenWeb about Affresh and the results from people who have used it. The product does work. It's just a matter of how severe the problem is that determines how well it will work and how many times you have to use it. There is also a product called Smelly Washer available online. This product was mentioned in the thread linked above, and the results appear to have been good.
Do not let the prospect of mold or mildew scare you away from a frontload washer. Follow my advice above, and you likely will not have a problem. And remember, just because you have a top load washer does not mean you do not have a build-up of crap inside your washer. I guarantee I could rip that thing apart and you would be disgusted. Top load owners should follow my advice above.
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Thanks for the blog. I have began to get the smell. I live in Scotland where mold runs pretty deep. I will try your suggestions and hope to resolve the issues. Thanks again,
Dundonian
You just described me perfectly. I have a Neptune stack I bought in 2000. I'm not sure if it's first or second generation, but I did get the notice of the class action lawsuit (and ignored it because I wasn't having the problem at the time). It has since started developing a rather pungent odor.
I leave the door open all the time when it's not in use, and that seems to help out in arid Las Vegas. I currently run most of my loads in cold water, and I use liquid detergent and liquid fabric softener, but I'll try the hot water / dishwasher soap combo you recommend, and start using powdered detergent and warm water.
I haven't yet read the rest of your site, where presumably you may answer my question, but doesn't hotter water promote shrinking, bleeding, and fading?
David,
Yes, you do have to exercise care when washing in warm or hot water temperatures. However, most people take the practice of washing in cold to the extreme. I think warm water will work well for almost everything, with a few exceptions such as very delicate items.
I wash most of my clothing in hot water, whites especially. Colors I will wash in warm, but I never ever use a cold wash. Step up to a warm wash with the occasional hot and I think things will work fine.
And it has been almost two years since I have purchased a new article of clothing, except for socks and skivvies. Part of that is because I am a cheap bastard. The other part is my clothes have lasted quite well in warm and hot water washes.
Well, except for that pair of khakis I blew the ass out of one day at the supermarket, but that's another story and another post.
Posted this in the previous post!
I had the same problem with our front load machine for the last 6 years...tried everything I was told to do, but it would only solve the smell problem temporarily....the smell would always come back.
I started using the Norwex Laundry Detergent (which is a powder) about 4 months ago because it is so economical, and we have 4 small kids so lots of laundry happens in this house! (with a front loader, I will get close to 800 loads for a bag that cost me $25....I only have to use about 1/2 tsp per load). I also stopped using any fabric softeners.
What I discovered about 2 weeks after I started using it, was that the horrible stink from the washer was completely gone, and my towels which were always smelly, now smell fresh, even after they got wet. I've also noticed that there's no longer the slimy sludge accumulating in the rubber seal around the washer door! HOORAY!!!
A god website that sells it is www.Norwex-Healthy-Cleaning.com
Good Luck :0)
I found the above to be not so true... in fact, most of it is not true at all. I have used cold water (my area's water is not SUPER hard but not soft either) with no problem at all for years and years and years. My washer does not stink (I do not use liquid detergent, but dry) and I don't spend a lot on detergent. In fact, sometimes I make my own detergent. The citric acid takes care of any potential "scum" problem in the washer and my clotes come out squeaky clean and seem to last forever. So the homemade detergent is not too harsh.
The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for ‘Norwex Ultra Powder Plus’ available at: -
http://www.dreamcatchergreencleanwebsites.com/attachments/113_Norwex_Ultra_Power_Plus_MSDS.pdf
gives the pH as 12.5 with a 10% solution. This means at that concentration it is extremely corrosive to aluminium and its alloys. Additionally the subject MSDS notes that flammable hydrogen gas may be liberated upon extended contact with various metals, one of which is aluminium: It further notes that it is incompatible with most of the previously noted metals, including aluminium.
The spiders in front load washing machines are manufactured from aluminium alloys
I do not believe that there is a panacea for the problem of foul odours from front load washers. There are many variables with equally as many, if not more solutions.
In my opinion, based on personal experience, there are two areas that can produce these odours that are generally overlooked. The first are the recesses in the spider, close to the hub. These will never fully drain and are virtually impossible to flush out, there is normally a gap of only 1-2mm between the faces of the webs which form the borders of the recesses and the outer face of the shaft seal. Water will be left in these at the end on the last (fastest)spin. This water will contain a variety of impurities which will, in time turn foul smelling. The second area is the porsoity of the aluminium oxide which forms on the spider as it corrodes, this holds water and impurities the same as the recesses and it also turns foul smelling.
Shortly after we moved in I noticed that the seal in my washer has dark mildew stains. First I applied bleach to the seal and wiped down the seal with water. There was only a small amount of residue. A few days later I used the Cascade product and as I wiped down the seal I picked up a lot of dark colored stains and some gooey stuff. It seems to be working. I will use the Cascade again and check for residue on the seal before washing clothes.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a HE detergent. I only found the Tide HE at my local store.
Mine is a top loader. I was running a gallon of bleach threw mine with Dawn dish soap and hot water while reading this. Adding cascade now....hopefully it won't bubble over. lol I HATE a stinky washer. Thanks for the blog. :-)
To compare washing machine cleaners:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua6OJPn0-fU
Leaving the door open does lessen odor by drying out the odor-causing residue but makes it very difficult to remove. If your washer stinks with the door open or closed it's time to clean it.
The best way to clean any washer is by doing overnight soaks starting with hot water and using a washing machine cleaner. Bleach or vinegar (NEVER TOGETHER, dangerous gases can form) will kill the mold growth on the residue but won't remove it from inside the outer tub - thereby exacerbating the situation because it leaves a "base" for more detergent to collect on and more mold will grow. In more difficult cases it is a good idea to fill the washer into a hot cycle and then add several gallons of hot water to raise the soaking water level. This is done in order to also soak the "splash area" just above the normal waterline where suds and soiled water splash up and don't get rinsed out. This will be an important part of the cleaning procedure for persistent or returning odor or for odor in towels.
Other cleaning tips:
Do a cleaning and soak with several older towels to cause the control to add more water during the cycle. The towels also cause a "wave effect" to help loosen residue.
Intermittent agitation during a long soak cycle will help loosen residue.
Long soaks, even overnight, allow a washer cleaner time to dissolve the moldy mess that has accumulated.
There are several reasons for washing machine odor and stinky towels.
1.The main cause is overuse of detergents because the user is following directions for amount used. It's necessary to use just a fraction of what directions on the box or bottle advise to use. This is especially important if using liquid detergent or if there is a water softener in the home. With a water softener present use at the most 1 tablespoon of detergent unless washing soiled dishrags, diapers,etc.
2.Running a close second is fabric softener use. We recommend switching to dryer sheets. Keep in mind that dryer sheets can also be overused and cause towels to be less absorbent and to retain odor. The sheets can be cut into halves or thirds and can even be reused. Dryer balls are another option.
3. Washing with mainly cold water is fine but makes preventive maintenance very important. A hot soak or wash as your last cycle on wash day will help flush out odor-causing residue. If the washer is seldom used or if leaving for an extended time a extra rinse cycle will help reduce odor.
a. Ensure that the water supply hoses are correctly installed so there are hot water washes and cold rinses. This is more common that one would think and can cause quite a residue buildup.
4.Another cause of washing machine odor is non-use of the appliance. If you are not going to use the washer for an extended period it's a good idea to do a cleaning with a washing machine cleaner. If leaving for a vacation shut the supply hoses off in case of a hose break. Bleach or vinegar spilled on rubber water hoses will cause deterioration and eventually a ruptured hose and flood the laundry area.
5.A partially clogged filter/trap will slow draining to cause odor. Before calling for appliance repair you can save money by cleaning it yourself. Most front loading washers have traps before the drain pump that can easily be cleaned. Consult the owners manual for instructions on cleaning the trap. Instructions are also available at http://www.ehow.com/how_6161420_clean-front-load-washing-machine.html Before working on any appliance unplug the unit. Have towels readily available in case of water spillage when cleaning the filter/trap.
I have a Maytag front load washer but I don't know what generation it is probably at least 8 years old. I seem to have a cough that will come and go but I can't get rid of it for the last six months. I use liquid tide and wash most of my clothes on cold and delicate. Towels and sheets I wash om hot. I noticed mold on the gasket yesterday and now I am freaked out that the black mold is causing my cough. My husband is cleaning the machine today and he is going to try the cascade complete. Has anyone else had respiratory problems from the mold?